Overland to India

So it was eventually time for us to depart our little home in fishling. This place had been our base for the last three months nearly and the family that lived there looked after us pretty well. The girls were great they made us chai, cooked meals for us, let us watch their TV and gave us advice on where to get stuff. Although I will be sad to leave I am also excited to see the friends I made in India again. 

After cleaning our small room and packing our belongings and the kayaks it was time to wait for the bus which was running on Nepali time - suprisingly! It arrived in the dark around 6:30 about two and a half hours later then expected. After getting the boats on the roof and tied on it was definatly goodbye to this small village that had been our home. Although, when we first got on the bus there was a guy sat in one of our seats who was sleeping. The 'bus drivers mate' spoke to him and he seemed reluctant to move to the back of the bus - however he didn't have any choice as we had these seats booked since a few days before. 

And then it was time to sit and listen to the great Nepali bus driving music mix. Which consisted of a range of Nepali love songs, Hindi dance music to gangnam style... Amoungst others. This was going to be a long journey overnight to reach the boarder town of mahindranager. 

The journey was fairly uneventful to be honest apart from a punctured tyre in the small hours of the morning and a few uneventful stops for police checks. No bribes or fuss was given about the kayaks which was good for us. We eventually arrived in mahindranager about 10am, where as soon as I stepped off the bus as usual everyone was asking if I needed a bus, taxi, rikshaw and I ignored them and helped with the boats. We were to stay and take some rest before crossing the boarder so we took the kayaks and the rest of our stuff to a guest house a short walk away from the bus park. I'm glad it wasn't any further and I was carrying the light play boat! After a breakfast of dal Bhat it was time for some needed sleep! 

Around 2pm we got woken up by the child from the guesthouse and got told we needed to leave which we were doing. He ran off for us to go and fetch some mode of transportation for the three boats and the two of us and after a short while turned up with a horse and cart. 

It could have been a joke, but it wasn't and we loaded up the boats on to the cart after paddy negotiated an agreed about the price. So we were off. Our last journey out of Nepal and into India would be on a horse pulling his cart, our three boats, bags and the three of us. The journey was about 15km or so and we passed police check points and customs and apart from smiling at what I guess was me and not the horse, none batted an eye lid at our boats. The first stop was at the Nepal immigration "office" - I mean desk where I filled in a departure form and got my departure stamp in my passport - which is the important part this stop took all of about 5 minutes. The second stop was the immigration police where they filled in a log book by hand to record some details such as my name, country, passport number and the time I went through. Again this stop took abut 5 minutes to complete but the converstation consisted of askin if I would like some chai and askin if I was single or married?!. The last stop was the Indian immigration, where I had to fill in an arrival form, then the guy at the desk asked me what my job was - I replied outdoor instructor which was too hard for him to understand, so I said instructor instead and he still didn't understand so I became a teacher... Close enough I guess. Like asking from where I started my journey to get here - he didn't understand where fishling or mugling where - so I left from kathmandu - doesn't matter that there is about a 100km difference I suppose? Then he filled in the paper log book to say I had entered India and stamped my passport with my entry stamp. Job done through immigration and security and crossed the boarder in probably one of the more interesting ways! 

Our horse had been doing a great job, his name was Salam khan after one of the Bollywood action heroes. And after the driver stopped a few times to do some shopping we were at the bus park. Time to unload the cart and have some bus drivers shout at us for our business on their bus - we found one leaving around the right time and going all the way to rishikesh which was good. So it was time to load the boats up again. I much prefer having my own car with roof racks or a trailer to transport boats but it can be done on the buses as long as you pay a little extra cash for carrying the boats. 

The bus however was a state bus and the condition much to be desired, I had a magic window which liked to open itself, the seats were hard and uncomfortable and the music much too loud. We left at 7pm and after some stops for chai and food, again greeted by chai, garam chai and all sorts being shouted that we could buy at the stops. The first stop one of the guys asked for a picture of me- which he seemed Suprised when I said no - reminded me of the things I dislike about India. This didn't happen in Nepal. Oh well. This is India! 

We eventually arrived in rishikesh at around 6:30 and our friend and his truck was there to greet us. 

Indian visa...

So it's time to start thinking about the second half of my trip. Getting to India. My Nepalese visa runs out shortly and I need to get my visa sorted out for India. This process is fairly straight forward or so it seems - you just need to fill in a form online, photocopy passport, Nepalese visa and previous Indian visa. Then a visit to the Indian visa centre in kathmandu pay your visa fee and then wait. 

I arrived early at the embassy and things were going smoothly and quickly until I got up to the counter. The forms were fine - my photo however was not - the background wasn't white enough...! So a trip to the shop next door 250 rupees later and a not so good photo - and that was sorted. The next stage was to pay the fee - British passport holders seem to have to pay the most for whatever reason. Maybe India holds a grudge from back in the day?! Who knows! Once this non refundable fee is paid you have to wait five working days to go back to the embassy in the morning to be told I you have been granted a visa or not and how long for. This is what I am waiting for at the moment. We shall see what happens but it's just waiting for now. 

Returning to kathmandu would be less than a simple process - turns out there is was a political strike going on so only tourist and private vehicles were allowed to travel. Staying in a village the buses were not stopping for us when we eventually went to get the bus that was. After a chai break it was time to try again and we managed to get a truck to stop for us which was transporting milk. It was pretty strange travelling - there was little to no vehicles on the roads which made the journey a lot easier and less dangerous than normal. There were however more children on the roads for us to dodge around. We did however eventually arrive in kathmandu and after paying the driver more than normal we were soon in Thamel. 

I was to go to the embassy for the second time to hand in my reciept to find out if I had been granted my visa. Again I arrived early and still the waiting took some time. Although they did get through people fairly quickly. However when it was eventually my turn to go up the lady informed me I needed to wait for nearly an hour and be interviewed. 

The interview consisted of three men asking me a few questions - the issue was from my previous visit to India. I unfortunantly did not register with the Forgein Registery Office within the specified time limit set out on my visa - which meant technically I had overstayed my visa... However I did register and pay a fine at the airport before I left. Which I thought would be the end of the issue but obviously not. Anyway I left and they said they would call me later that day. 

Later that day came and went and I decided to go to the office again in the morning to find out what was happening. I got there and the lady at the counter 'said you had an interview yesterday' - 'never'.... Anyway I informed her that they had not phoned me like they said - and then she said 'take a seat'. This lady had been getting on my nerves a little throughout this process but I smiled and sat down. Nearly an hour later I was called up and she nicely informed me I had been granted my visa - yippee!! But not for as long as I had hoped for. Nevermind - plans can change. Well they will have to anyway! After handing my passport in again it was time to wait until the next evening to pick up my visa. Meaning more time and money wasted in kathmandu... 

Picking up my passport was the easiest process as I just walked in and walked up to the  counter and was given my passport. Not long at all - unlike the wait that I had to get it! 

But visa stuff didn't finish there - seeing as this process had taken so long we had decided to extend my Nepalese visa not for too long but long enough to has time to do some practise before the competition. So it was another days wait as the government offices are not open on a Saturday.... 

Extending my Nepali visa however was fairly straight foreword unlike the walk there!! The walk was fairly long though lots of people but it was nice to see other areas of kathmandu rather than just the tourist area of Thamel. Once I got there it was time to hand over my piece of paper which I had to print after filling a form in online with photocopies - but they didn't want the photocopies - I then got asked to stand in another line so I could pay the fee - $30 for 15 days. Then once I had paid and been given a receipt I had to wait to get my passport back. That was it  a whole 10 minute process no stress no hassle. The way that it should be! 

So with all that done- it was time to head back to fishling with a couple of kayaks. So we could get back on the river and out of the city. 

Tamba Kosi

Although I had paddled my last river of the year the boys were yet to paddle theirs. We just had to get there! The trip had split up with two guides staying with Michelle so that she could paddle the Bhote Kosi and the boys could do a harder river. 

The journey was to take us up the mountain and I went along for the road trip. It was a fairly painful journey with my head hurting with the bumpy roads and shaky bus however it was nice to see the scenery. There was great views of some high mountains and we passed through several pretty villages along the way. That is until the bus suddenly stopped. Again this was to be another "6 hour journey" that turned into more! Luckily however we had a mechanic on board who was able to help to save the day. That was for a few hundred meters until the bus stopped again. We got it started and another few hundred meters and you guessed it - it stopped again. Luckily we were in a town at the top of the mountain and we were able to get the bus to a garage.

 We all offloaded to go have a toilet stop and for the boys a beer - and the mechanics had got it started again. So we set off on the way again. Shortly after leaving and heading down the mountain - again the engine cut out again - this time it had got dark so out came the head tourches and the on board mechanic set to work again. As we were facing downhill the plan to start it was for one of the boys to run in front with a head tourch and the other boys to push the bus to jump start it - luckily the bus started and we didn't need this plan but when in Nepal who knows what will happen. 

The rest of the journey was again fairly uneventful although a slight scare happened when a motorcycleist smashed our wing mirror - at least he didn't collide with the bus as we ha already killed a dog (I don't think any of us would have been happy if we had killed a person!). 

We however did eventually reach our destination for the night a small house of which the 9 of us would sleep upstairs. It was very basic accomadation a room with a tin roof a bed and not much else although it was enough for us for one night. After a short lay down for me because my head my in so much pain from all the travelling we had our nightly dal Bhat and then it was time for some rest. They boys were to have a big day ahead of them the next day. 

The boys were to set off early and after some noodles for breakfast they got geared up and ready to start paddling. I was to spend the day with the bus and the boys that were with the bus. The river to start with looked fairly flat and calm with nothing to worry about. That was to change however but they left feeling happy and excited for the paddle ahead. 

We started the drive to the get out and stopped along the way at what we though was the first major rapid. Whilst we were waiting some villagers stopped and asked me what had happened to my head - with my limited Nepali and no English from them photos on my mobile showed them followed by some nodding and more Nepali being spoken that was pretty much it apart from the bus driver explaining to them when they asked them. 

The boys were soon in sight and they seemed to be caught off guard by the rapid that was to come. Soon enough they were at the side inspecting the rapid deciding which way they were to go. Soon they were off and our view of them was gone. We later discovered that there was a group of people burning a body by the river who all stopped watching the person burn and were watching the boys go down the rapid. 

Again we stopped further down the river at an even bigger rapid - it turned out to be the same rapid. They had got out and scouted a lot by the stories from the boys and at this point three of the boys walked off the river and joined us on the bus. The rest of it the two Nepali guides - shamba and paddy had then decided just to say to the English boys - follow us and they made quicker progress. 

At the end when we all joined up again the boys were in high spirits and they had  all enjoyed themselves! Now it was time to load up the bus with the boats and head back to meet Michelle and the other two boys. Apart from some interesting banter then bus journey was uneventful. Soon the whole group was back together and the journey continued through to kathmandu. We arrived around 10pm plenty of time to get changed and ready to see the new year in. There were thousands of people however and making the way through the crowd to get to the office was quite hard and again by this time my head was hurting lots so it was time for a lay down - which turned into sleep - missing the new year come in - again for the second year in a row!?! 

Overall it was a good trip and chance to paddle some different rivers and see different parts of Nepal. 

Rivers and rescue of a different kind...

It was once again time to travel to kathmandu - Fortunantly it was only for one night before we would be leaving again. We jumped on the bus at fishling with the rest of the guides and clients for the multi river trip. They had lost a couple of people so there was a girl called Michelle and five lads plus the guides. They all seemed like a good laugh although a little fed up of being on the bus - but the beer was helping them through it! 

We arrived in kathmandu fairly late, after unloading the bus, eating some food other than dal Bhat  and sleeping - it was time to load up the bus again and set off to the east and start our journey. It took us a while to get out of kathmandu - we all thought they were looking for oil with stopping at every petrol station but it turned out it was diesel - there was a fuel shortage which had just happened that morning apparently! Soon though we were able to fill the tank and we were underway on our journey. 

We arrived at our lodgings for the night which was situated on the bhote kose not too far away from the confluence where the bhalefi joins. After some lunch it was time to get on the river - on the way up to the bhalefi the journey again was not without event. A dog had run in front of the bus and unfortunatly that was the last time it would ever run again - although it was a stray it happened in front of several young children. I guess these things just happen.

The river itself was from the begining fairly fast and filled with lots of rocks - so a lot of dodging was to be done - the guide boom described the river as a kayakers dream river with boulder gardens, beautiful blue water and fast water. It definatly fitted the description with lots of non stop action and rapids to run some harder than others. The biggest drop on the river and I walked around this rapid with paddy running my boat down for me - which I was more than happy with. 

We were padding fairly quickly as there wasn't much time for stopping with rapid following rapid which was fun catching nice lines through the boulders. Until near the end - unfortunantly I managed to land on top of a boulder and drop into a hole - which I stayed up for some time until I got flipped - no issues I went to set up for a roll and then bang - my head had hit a rock hard, under the water. Time to pull the deck as I couldn't think at that moment - maybe I should have tried to roll but the force that my head hit the rock I wanted air as soon as possible. Paddy was right there to rescue me so I grabbed the front of his boat. And he started paddling me to the side - which was when I said to him "sorry I didn't roll I hit my head on a rock" to which he replied "it's ok, hold on your bleeding". 

It was then I put my hand to my head and saw the blood - mixed with the water it seemed like there was loads. When I got to the side I started to panic a little as I couldn't see what had happened I just knew that it hurt. Thankfully the English guys had some first aid stuff with them and after a quick bandage up, short ferry glide across the river, paddy and me walked up to the road to the bus - we were only approx half a kilometre away from the end but I did not want to get back into the boat. 

I got taken to the hospital and there they asked "what kind of doctor would you like?" And stated the rip off prices that they wanted to charge. I didn't know about this until afterwards but a phone call later and we had a doctor to see me. This doctor cleaned me up, gave me some local anesthetic and then two stitches. The cut was down to the bone apparently which was pretty impressive! I only had to pay for the medicines and what they used. Overall it wasn't a bad experience. Although the headache and black eye that were to follow the next few  days would be a reminder of the rock I had a fight with. 

Christmas in Nepal

So it's Christmas. It doesn't feel like it. Like I found in India Christmas isn't really a big deal over here - mostly only for the tourists. Places like kathmandu and Pokhara where a lot of western tourists hang out offer Christmas menu's which was nice to see. 

We were to spend a few days in pokhara which was a nice change of scenery. Christmas Day itself was beautiful and sunny and started with an English breakfast! Winner! Bacon and eggs always goes down well for my breakfast! The rest of the day was pretty relaxed walking around the lake and having some chai - looking around a few of the shops and then skyping my parents. 

Although I wanted it to be a suprise for my mum - she read the what's app messages I sent to my dad's phone and guessed! Way to go spoil a suprise! It was the first time I had skyped them since arriving in Nepal at the start of November. There is was Christmas morning and both my parents, my Aunty Pam & uncle stu plus George and will were there. It was really good to talk to them all and see my home again! I always  enjoyed Christmas and I was always the little elf that gave everyone their presents and for the second year running it wasn't me. Last year they made Hannah George's girlfriend do it and this year it became wills turn so hopefully he did a good job. 

Santa on the other hand didn't get the message I was in pokhara so apart from a small chocolate bar from my sweet raft guide that was it! Who needs presents anyway! 

That evening we headed to Silk Road and met up with a few of our kayak friends - the group ranged from Nepali guides, English kayakers, and girls from New Zealand, Poland and the USA. It was a good night full of happiness and of course beer and a BBQ! 

The next day it was time to leave pokhara and head back to fishling as our next kayaking adventures were to start in a few days. 

Rescue time!

Once back in fishling we had kind of two days before we were to meet up with the multi river guys. This gave chance for more kayaking - mostly playing on the wave for paddy and some more rolling practise for myself. There were a few kids that had been trying to kayak and trying to roll but failing and no one was there to help coach them. At least they were trying close to the side and in mostly shallow water. 

The day we were to go to kathmandu in the morning however I went down to the river and got in my boat to warm up and there was someone sat on the other side of the bank. It turned out it was one of the kids from the day before and he had paddled upstream flipped, bailed out the boat and lost both the boat and the paddle and was stuck on the other side of the river. He had tried to swim across apparently but had been unsuccessful. So I went to rescue him when I got closer he just said "help me!" Which I was impressed at as he at least attempted to speak English to me! So after a rescue mission it was time to carry on with practise time. 

From the Himalaya to the highlands and back again

So, it's nearly the end of the year. Wow it feels like yesterday that I was in India and slept through the new year celebrations. However I was ill and the kidney stones I had recently been diagnosed with meant that celebrations would be of the non alcoholic variety anyway. 

It's been a fantastic year really, starting off in the Indian himalaya (which I recently found out that 'hima' means snow and 'laya' means abode or home) then travels took me to Goa and Mumbai with Paddy. This holiday was fantastic and allowed me to experience more of India - namely travel on long distance trains, beaches, cities, crowds and quieter communities. 

Upon returning from the trip more experience of Delhi and rishikesh was to be had where I entered my first white water kayaking competition. Although the female category was under represented it did allow me to place second and win some prizes. I also met a lot of people and a lot of good kayakers over the two days who I may or may not encounter again. 

Although, I was having a great time experiencing new programs and treks in various locations. frustrations where starting to develop with the work and peoples views on my relationship with Paddy. Instead of getting frustrated it was time to do something about it - namely leave the company and India. This decision was particularly hard as I don't like quitting and I was uncertain where this would take me although with the summer season in the uk approaching and a secured job offer oh made sense to earn some money again. 

So it was back to the uk I went, not without a little stress and drama. I nearly missed my flight for apparently overstaying my visa as I hadn't registered my stay at the registry office - a little stress and a small fine later I was on the. Plane. I remember sitting on the plane for the whole journey wanting it to be turned around and wanting to stay - that didn't happen though and I was soon back in the cold! 

It was good to see the parents and Bedfordshire for a little while before I commenced the long drive up to Scotland - well it wasn't just Scotland it was Inverness right up in the highlands. It would turn out to be an interesting summer - I rented a room in a house with a lovely gay couple living in it in a small village with no shop. Both of the his were great and I enjoyed living there the house was always clean and the occasional cooked meal was always apprieciated. 

It was the start of my time up in Scotland where I undertook my raft guide training course. This course was great with a bunch of lads and all with different motivations. This course would hopefully make it a little easier for me and Paddy to be together. It was enjoyable despite to cold weather and water which I was not used to at all! 

Working was just as interesting, a small team of staff and I was the only female instructor - again. It didn't matter though and many adventures were to be had from canoeing down the Spey, gorge walking, to driving to some amazing remote locations within the highlands to pick up or drop off kit for the hire people. Getting lost up in the highlands was something that happened fairly frequently  - although the use of sat nav helped me greatly to avoid this most of the time. 

Leaving Scotland would be hard as good friendships had been made and it's beautiful up there - however plans had been made to return home for just over a month. This month at home would see we spend most of my days either with my parents or flat water kayaking. My evenings were mostly spent delivering pizza's. My career as a delivery driver was fairly fun for the most part although late nights and hard to find addresses where the annoyances in my fairly Unstressful life. 

My life was getting a little more stressful trying to pack paddling gear and a boat so that I could fly with it. Eventually it got sorted alright and no extra charges made it a bonus and I was back to the himalaya this time though it would be nepal. 

What an introduction I had to nepal, one night in kathmandu, then travel to the Trishuli for a bit of kayaking and then off to the tamur, which included a trek and some rafting with some great people. Then back to kathmandu and the Trishuli for the white water competition. Other travels took us to pokhara, chitwan and to visit his family in a small village. 

Now it's Christmas in pokhara and after a short Skype with my parents, Aunty and uncle and George and will for the first time since I had been out here we had fun with the kayak crew. Although it didn't feel very Christmassy it was nice to enjoy some time off the river with friends which had been made during my time here so far. 

I realise that I've been very fortunant this year and the oppourtunities that have got me back with my little man in this strange yet amazing country have been apprieciated. I am thankful to those who I have met along the way that have helped me, put up with my banter and moaning at times. 

Looking to the new year I am hoping that it too will bring some great oppourtunities for me to grow and develop. I am also looking forward to more adventures along the way whatever they may bring, along with being reunited with friends who have been missed. There is also the marriage of my brother to his fiancé to look forward to - the union of these two will reunite and bring together our family from the country to spend some time together. Hopefully this year although may be a struggle a times for certain members of the family hopefully good health and happiness will push through. 

Although It again was a dry new year due to splitting my head open but that's another post it was still a great end to an amazing year here's to another great year to come.